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Hello all
I just blasted my first panel with aluminum oxide and tried to glue chip today with Letterhead Sign Supplies hyde glue. , I am using Oracal 651 as my resist it works great for blasting at 25psi with aluminum oxide. When I put the hyde glue on my negative areas to chip I cut any "bridges" that i could, and tried to sharpen my points, wow does that stuff gel fast. One question I have is What do you try to do using a small font within the chipped area, if the font is not real large is this possible? And will the resist keep the glue from chipping if i missed any areas? I did not have a glue pot, my local craft store does not stock one so, off to old wally world. I got a presto deep fat fryer/ steamer/ stew kettle. Grabbed a thick glass candle holder and out the door. I can keep the glue at 145 consistently and there is no skin on the top cause of the lid on the kettle. Checked the temp right at 145. I used a 1 to 1:5 mix. I glued it at 4:00 or so it was a very thick i believe mixture. Before i left at five i swear i hear a few plinks and chinks. While at wally world i found a meat injector for BBQ and i am using that to apply it with slowly. I had to change out syringe many times as the hyde glue got thick quickly. Temp in the shop 75 degrees humidity 65. Should be interesting to see what i find in the morning. How do i clean the glue off the best without messing up the resist as i am using that for my paint outlines also? I am making this as a Christmas gift for my girlfriend it is a coca cola sign, if there is any prob with me posting pics of this project please let me know. I have used the search button so much i think i broke it
Thank you so much for any advice
I am so pumped from just doing this today
Scott,
I am just getting ready to chip 3 pieces today or tomorrow as well so it's cool to read your post. Here are my main factores for successful chipping.
Don't put the glue on to thin. You can see the texture of the blast.
Don't put it on to thick. It will take forever or never to chip. I like it to be a little bit thinner then the thickness of deep carve sandblast mask when it ready to go in the box. maybe 1/16".
Let it dry out until it's like hard leather before putting in the box.
Cross your fingers that it does anything!!!!!
On the small stuff trim it the best you can and hope for the best. I wouldn't use the same mask for chipping as painting. After I chip everything gets cleaned off. The glass is then remasked for the next step.
By the sound of it your not putting it into any kind of chipping cabinet so god luck with that.
Scott,
So here are my 4 pieces I'm working on. I acid etched them yesterday. I try and start my chipping early as possible in the day. It's 12am and I already have the glue cut and just waiting now for the glue to dry out. It's got to be very like hard rubber before I put it in the booth.
Hopefully it will be chipped in the morning when I come out to the studio.
So Larry....... You did but have you ever tryied to pick up snot off the side walk ? I wait until the glue firms up abit before I take it off. I don't use asphaltum so I like to leave the mask on encase I have to rechip an area.
Those are cool are they for a trucking company? When i chipped my project is pulled up the resist when the glue hardened, that was ok cause it gave me a area to get my razor under that didnt chip to plink it out. So far I am very happy with this I am attempting to gild the chip tomorrow first time. I know Kent Smith is on the board and I am relying on his book alot great read. the only thing that is not really stated or im just blind and that does happen, with a water gild on chipped glass do i wait or lay the gold right away? From what i got from the book is water gild place the gold right away then second gild with quick or slow size not water size correct?
Denver Chapter of the Letterheads