Another test piece

[erik winkler]

Hello,

Here is an other testpiece I made.
Hope you like it.

1.jpg (78.54 KiB) Viewed 14488 times

2.jpg (88.04 KiB) Viewed 14489 times

3.jpg (83.91 KiB) Viewed 14497 times

4.jpg (85.54 KiB) Viewed 14500 times

[erik winkler]

And some more photo's:

5 Top.jpg (101.3 KiB) Viewed 14486 times

6 Toptop.jpg (107.43 KiB) Viewed 14489 times

8 Topright.jpg (92.95 KiB) Viewed 14486 times

9 Erik.jpg (98.39 KiB) Viewed 14481 times

[erik winkler]

And the last detail photo's:

9a Middle.jpg (101.81 KiB) Viewed 14460 times

9b Bottomfront.jpg (115.41 KiB) Viewed 14458 times

9c Bottomright.jpg (109.08 KiB) Viewed 14458 times

9d Bottomleft.jpg (101.82 KiB) Viewed 14458 times

Erik

[Larry White]

Glass work is coming right along.

Looks like you've got chipping and silvering well in hand.

One suggestion...on your lower block of text, whatever it says,
I'd avoid having the bright lines of the letters intersect. Be okay
for the black outline to intersect, but the letters would stand out
a bit better if the bright lines didn't. That's just me, that's me.

Nice job! On to the next one. Can't wait to see that 10 foot by 4 foot one.

Aho!

[Larry White]

.

[David Slade]

Beautiful!
Does it say "gilding and silvering"?
Is the silver done chemically or leaf?
What did you use for your stipple on the gold?

Thanks for your indulgence,
David Slade

[erik winkler]

Larry, i do not think I completely understand you.
The gold stippling is outlined with a bright line.
The glue chipping is outlined with a bright line.
My last experiment showed that the border between gold and silver needs a good nice and crisp black outline.
What do you suggest excactly?

David,
Yes it does say gilding and silvering in Dutch
It is chemiclly silvered.
The stippling is done with Mica etching.

Erik

[Larry White]

Pretty fancy for a "test piece", Erik. My test pieces are in some dusty box in a back room, or in the dumpster.
That test piece will be needing a frame, and a nice spot on the wall!



I was just thinking you'd have better letter definision if the gold bright line around the textured letter centers,
didn't run together. Maybe that's just me. It would be okay, however, if the black outlines touched.

Not all fonts lend themselves to doing a technique as a "letter center".
Basically, when creating a letter center, the existing outline of the font
needs to be inset to define the bright line, and to not alter the font itself.
But keep in mind (as I was taught), the thinnest area of the letter center
should always be thicker than the bright line. I don't typically like outlining
a font to create a bright line, because it alters the actual font and
sometimes looks "baloonish". Sometimes you can get away with a slight
outline and inset together, to achieve a bright line that's thinner than
any portion of the center.

Keep up the good work.

...Hey, I know, how about a blended letter shade on the next test piece!

-Aho!

[erik winkler]

Thanks for the advise.

I will try certainly try to look for a better solution next time.
First thing I will do is make the outline thinner.
I thought I needed the barrier because of possible mis-chipping, but it can be reduced by 1/3.
Besides that I can increase the spacing of the letters and try to place the letters over each other.

Blended shading is coming up specially for you!
Would you like that with another technique? I was thinking of adding a picture also...

[Patrick Mackle]

Erik,
Your "test" piece is very impressive. The chipping work is nice and true to the line work.
Did you use transparent enamel inks on those colored round accents?

Larry brought up a good point about choosing fonts that work well for extra decorating. Rick Glawson
pointed out the same observation on one of my first test pieces.

Keep on posting your work Erik.
Pat

[erik winkler]

Pat,
I indeed used transparent solvent based enamel inks.
I had a bit of a problem with the paint when I glued them afterwards with UV second glue (I think you call it cyanaat glue).
The paint was dissolving again and I quickly had to redo a few of them...

[Patrick Mackle]

Erik,
The acrylic solvents in quick setting super glues are very volatile, more so than acetone.
I was repairing a crack in my truck's windshield and the glue dripped onto the hood paint.
Before I could grab a rag to sweep it away, the glue dissolved the paint!
Pat

[erik winkler]

Do you have a soluton for this problem Pat, besides maybe shellack?

Erik calling from Buenos Aires Argentina.

[Patrick Mackle]

Hi Erik,
I've been giving it some thought from two angles.
One is what would the old time sign makers use. The second is what is currently available off the shelf, or what current ingredients
would I purchase to formulate my own adhesive that would remain extremely stable in service to the sign. Also should it be water based or solvent based.
If I were an old sign maker and required such a glue, I would look to gelatin or animal glue. Being water based, they would dry and not affect or be affected
by paints and solvents. I think that a very thin dilute amount of animal glue used on your small colored glass circles would be undetectable and very strong.
Running some tests would prove fairly quickly if it would work.

Another more instant method would be to use a heated rosin and beeswax mixture. As soon as the mixture cooled, the circle would be attached to the glass sign.
Kind of like a late 1800's "hot glue".
Pat

[erik winkler]

Ok thanks,

I think the waterbased paint would be the best solution.
But as for now I have all this new paint and will try to experiment with shellack, and your other ideas.

Erikieee