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Advise needed for gilding v-carve HDU

Hand Lettering topics: Sign Making, Design, Fabrication, Letterheads, Sign Books.

Moderators: Ron Percell, Mike Jackson, Danny Baronian

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Amy Brown
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Location: Lake Helen, Florida
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Advise needed for gilding v-carve HDU

Post by Amy Brown »

We have a sign to do that will have some areas v-carved. Plan of attack is to first paint the sign after laminating the two sheets of HDU with West Systems and the mounting pipes. Then we plan to mask the sign with paint mask and put in on the router table to do the v-carving. I don't normally prime HDU as I like the look without primer, however, with gilding I need it smooth. We are using Coronado Acrylic Enamel to paint the fronts which have been primed with FSC-88WB Primer/Filler and sanded smooth.

So, what method should I take to keep the mask in place so I can paint the v-carved areas easier but still get a good smooth filler of some type in the carved spots that need gilding?

Thanks so much!
Amy Brown
Ambo Design
386-228-2436
amy@ambodesign.com
http://www.ambodesign.com
Danny Baronian
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Post by Danny Baronian »

My first suggestion is to do a test piece. The process is not fast and I usually allow a considerable lead time. It provides good, consistent results.

Here's what I did with the following panel:

Route the blank, apply two coats of primer, two coats of acrylic latex and let sit for a week. I mask the back with transfer tape to protect the surface and dust the face with kolin powder. Apply gerber mask II. Most suppliers carry gerber mask I but it is not as aggressive and the router bit will pull up fine details when routing with the type I.

Index the panel in the event something doesn't route correctly, that way you can remove, repair, reposition and rework the panel. Route as usual, taking a final pass a few thousandths less than the last, this makes a finer finish cut and cleans the mask up.

Prime the letters as usual using a foam brush, do two light coats, sanding with a sponge sanding pad between coats. On the second coat I usually tint close to the final color. Light sprayed coats give a superior finish if you have a spray set up. If your after a metalic letter, the best is Rustoleum spray paint made for exterior applications. All metallic paints will oxidize over time due to the metal content. Manufactures claim a clear coat will prolong finish, but I find it marginal at best. For this reason alone whenever using a new product or new method, test it yourself.

Once the mask is applied process the panels as quickly as possible, then remove the mask. You don't want the mask on a freshly painted panel for long.

If the letters are to be gilded rather than painted, proceed with your normal sizing after priming, then carefully remove the mask.

Image
Image

Eagle Ridge is another example of a sign of that was masked, routed and gilded.

There are two other examples in the Eagle Ridge photo.

1. A very good reason to buy Mike Jackson's American CD Collection. Everything in this sign was from the Americana collection, the panel, font and image. The scrolls may be from another of his collections , but everything else is from Americana.

2. ALWAYS check the work order. In another 15 minutes the other side would have been completed when the customer walked in. He loved it, but... it's Eagle CREEK Ranch. I'd made the correction on the work order but never checked it when I did the final computer file.

Image
Last edited by Danny Baronian on Sat Apr 24, 2004 9:13 am, edited 1 time in total.
Danny Baronian
Baronian Mfg.
CNC Routing & Fabrication
http://www.baronian.com
Joe House
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Location: Portland Oregon
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Post by Joe House »

Danny, What is kolin powder and what is the purpose of it? I've seen it mentioned here before, but never really knew.

Joe
Best Regards,
Joe House
Danny Baronian
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Post by Danny Baronian »

It's a pure, fine powdered porcelain clay. In the case of applying a mask as in routing, applying the powder to the panel, then dusting off will aid in removal of the gerber mask. When used in masking for the router, rouge can also be use with the same results. And if your wondering why not use gerber mask 1, try it, the results are not the same. Test both.

Used in gilding, an application of koalin over the area to be gilded will prevent gold sticking to unwanted areas. The powder is pure and fine enough that it does not affect the final gild.

If you don't already have it bookmarked, there are sources for koalin and other materials here:

http://www.theletterheads.com/supplies/index.htm
Last edited by Danny Baronian on Sat Apr 24, 2004 9:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
Danny Baronian
Baronian Mfg.
CNC Routing & Fabrication
http://www.baronian.com
Joe House
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 10:35 pm
Location: Portland Oregon
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Post by Joe House »

The gerbermask1 was a thought behind the question as I have used that when routing Sintra painted with a 2part Urethane Paint with excellent results. The difference could be in the paint surface itself. Thanks for the explanation of other uses as well

Joe
Best Regards,
Joe House
David Harding
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Location: Carrollton, TX
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Post by David Harding »

Regarding Danny's Eagle CREEK Ranch: Some of my best samples have come from failing to read my own work orders. I like to tell myself they have earned more money than they cost me. Yeah, I'll stick with that story.
David M. Harding
A Sign of Excellence
Carrollton, TX
www.asignx.com
joe cieslowski
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Location: east canaan ct
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Post by joe cieslowski »

I and several shops that I know have been using pretty much the same system that Danny has explained with teriffic success over the years. However, I have spoken with others who fear this method allows an opportunity for failure at the edges of the lettters where this mask was removed.

Has anyone had a failure of this type using this method?

Thanks in advance.

Joe
Makin Chip$ and Havin Fun!
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