how to lead centers of grinding wheels for glass lathe

[Terry Westlin]

I purchases a used Covington glass lathe a year or so ago. I have finally found some grinding wheels so I can start dabbling in cut glass. I want to add a few things to my sandcarving pieces. Mostly basic stuff for now. Problem is all the wheels are for a 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 shaft and my machine is a 1" shaft.

I know the centers can be leaded and drilled to fit. Since I have more time than money the quest has been slow.

I haven't been able to find any video or other info on how to actually do this. I know diamond wheels would be the way to go but for me just trying to get started I can't see spending the money (right now) And I would also like to learn the old process.

Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction?

Thanks for any help.

[pat mackle]

Hi Terry,
Glad to see you are interested in wheel cutting. I became interested back in 1980 and started building a set up in my single car garage beneath my apartment. Bit by bit some people are drawn to the craft.
There is a man in Arizona who is very talented in many things including various types of wheel engraving both with stone wheels and copper wheels. He has great machinist skills and collects and restores old glass cutting lathes and related equipment. He has taken time to post videos and share his knowledge. You can Google more of his postings, and here is one I pulled up just now showing some info on leading stone wheels. Try this site now
http://jamesriser.com/Leading%20Wheels% ... otype).pdf

[Terry Westlin]

Thanks Pat

I looked some and found a couple of his vids drilling new wheels from a larger one but nothing on leading. I'll keep looking.

Thanks again.

[pat mackle]

Hi Terry,
It is weird that the link I posted will not bring up James' pdf on leading wheels.
So if you Google "James Riser leading wheels" the pdf should come up like it did when I just tested it.

[Terry Westlin]

Thanks Pat

The link was coming up "page not found" on my end. I was going to his site and didn't find anything but your search text worked.

I have some reading to do.

Thanks very much.

[pat mackle]

Hi Terry,
James' wheel leading info there, mostly shows the leading on tapered pointed threads. They are tapered because a tapered thread will take up the wear of the soft lead as the wheel is mounted and dismounted from the point over time/years of use. But straight machine threads are also used, and as that lead wears, it can be "tightened up" by punching the leaden metal around the thread(while it's on a threaded arbor) with a hammer and punch. Many times you will come across a stash of these old straight threaded engraving wheels with a series of deep punched holes in the leaden centers. One other thing is that you mentioned that you have a Covington lathe. That model of lathe will get you started, but as soon as you can get a more substantial lathe with a thicker shaft and heavier precision bearings. Poured babbitted bearings(no balls or roller bearings) are the tried and true choice through the ages, you will be much better off. Especially if you intend to do some really nice precise cutting and polishing. An important key to a smooth cutting lathe is the mass/weight of the lathe which helps absorb unwanted vibrations and harmonics which will reveal themselves in the quality of your work.

[Terry Westlin]

Pat thanks very much for all the info and tips.

I kind of thought the punch marks in the stone centers was to tighten them up some but you confirmed it for me.

I got the covington in an auction lot and looked like it was used once. I had been looking for a larger lathe but fell into this deal. It was cheap. (-: Then the quest was on to find some suitable grinding wheels.

I had a heck of a time finding info on that. I did chat with you a looong time ago and you steered me into stones that would work. (Thank you again)

Now I have the pieces to get started and as soon as I can get some practice in then I may jump up to some diamond wheels.

I always look around for a large lathe as you stated but so far that has been a no go. I am sure once I do get my feet wet that I will pursue that ques a little harder.


A larger flat lap would be used right away on many of the projects I do and being time rich and money poor makes a nice shiny new one of those out of the question as well.


One step closer....

Thanks again Pat for your help. Hopefully it wont be another year before I get started.

[Tyler Tim]

http://jamesriser.com/Leading%20Wheels% ... otype).pdf.

Link was broke... Try that

[Terry Westlin]

Thanks Tim

[Terry Westlin]

Picked up a bunch of lead weights so the quest continues.

I hope to have a few wheels leaded in the next week or so. That will give me a few to start with and get my feet wet.

Thanks for the help and tips.