Posted by Billy Bob on May 09, 2002
Vance GalliherIf anyone has ever applied epoxy to dimensional letters to get a rounded top surface, what is the best epoxy to use? I'd like to use this effect on a Letterhead project. Thanks.
Caroltimely post billy bob.....less than an hour ago, i just finished appling my first surface epoxy application to hdu letters..........it's drying as we speak..........pb epoxy resin from coastal enterprises......chuck (owner) was kind enough to send a sample......i'll gild it next week....stay tuned......vance
D. BernhardtI used that technique right after seeing it in Banff. Several of the letters have warped and pulled loose from the substrate. It happens to be on redwood. Only the side that is constantly exposed to our long summer sunshine have failed. Has anyone else had this happen? Good luck Vance. It sure looks nice when it works.
CarolHi there C.......tell me, is this the west system and fibers method? if so i'll bet you didn't "quick prime" the area first?
tell more....doug
D. BernhardtI did prime the area first. But it was not West Systems.
Carolhi again C...this falls into the adhesives category which is a big one....the quick prime method i'm speaking of goes something like.....give the areas a light but covered coat of epoxy. you'll see that after a minute or so some spots are dull (soaked in) and others glossy. this is a good sign that you are "priming" the surfaces and if you feel so inclined add a bit more to the absorbant area. next...mix into west system (well prepared)add your 406 until you get the right thickness for you..if you're bonding boards you look for something that won't run right off but remains dense. the two make a real tight joint and am sure your problem is licked! the thing is it remains flexible but at the same time the "quick prime" has made the surface receiptive to the thickened goo!
Joe CrumleyThanks Doug. I'm just hoping that I don't have to take the sign down to fix it. But I appreciate your explanation if it comes to that.
I have used both PD resin and West Epoxy with some success and failures.
HD Foam letters that have been cut out, should have front and back surfaces coated to prevent curling. Back coat only needs a light coat.
PD Resin must be mixed till you're arm feels like falling off.
We spray a good soaking coat of alchohol twice too after or during coating.
The addition of One Shot will cover well and looks great. We have had good luck with routed incised letters, using a large Hypo (Vet Syringe) to get epoyy in theb well of letters. White mixed in PD resin looks like n. It's like youre-mother in-law, it will turn on you.
Pouring colored resin in routed letters looks Hot Dang good and a fast way to get the job done. If you have ever primed, and painted the old way, you will really like this affect and speed.
How UV resisant is it really? Regardless of whay they promise.
D. Bernhardt
after just talking/typing a heap about west system with it's fillers.....that's what dave beatty uses to achieve this effect. west system with 406 microfibers and pours (i'm sure carefully)over the areas left after blasting out his backgrounds. there are a few photo's of this method in some of the trade mags and used as adverts. next time i see one will post it here.
Joe Crumley
I have used three of the fillers sold by West Epoxy and they work just fine, although they are toooooo expensive and get air born fast. I would take their advice and use a particle mask when mixing.
We prefer the saw dust from our belt sander as a thickner. It is always handy, free, and not so ... dangerous. After using lots of fillers, I find this process far, superior. It sands better and sticks were you put it.
Achieving the appropriate slump needed for gap filling is faster and easier.
Denver Chapter of the Letterheads